consider this bike thread car snyyyped
swampman posted:Uggs
yase,
also if its still uncomfortable get a wide saddle with springs underneath, that helps
toyotathon posted:anybody who wants to step their bike love up will dig "Lugged Bicycle Frame Construction" by Marc-Andre R. Chimonas
steel-frame bikes with lugs are stronger, last forever, ride smoother, can be built at home with cheap hand tools, can be brazed instead of welded (ie no skill involved except watching a youtube), and can be fit exactly to your body. in all my years of bikeriding, i have never had less than 1 kg i could lose, which is ~ the weight difference between steel and Al/Ti/carbon.
for some reason lugged framebuilding has become one of those luxury craftspeople things. its weird because the lugged method is explicitly about getting away with sloppy work in a mass production setting. since the lug does all the work you can do the shittiest least well fitting pipe cutting you ever seen and it doesnt matter.
roseweird posted:tears posted:can you even rent a manual in the usa?, i forgot that automatics are even a thing, trust amerikkka to suck all the fun out of everything
i don't think so, no one knows how to shift one so it would be a big liability. not all automatics have such timid shifting points though, also highways in the most populated part of the country have lower speed limits
that legit sucks, taking away gear and clutch control from driving would neuter the whole experience.
edit: on second thoughts drunk posting about my past as a dangerous and irresponsible driver is not a good idea
Edited by tears ()
Horselord posted:for some reason lugged framebuilding has become one of those luxury craftspeople things. its weird because the lugged method is explicitly about getting away with sloppy work in a mass production setting. since the lug does all the work you can do the shittiest least well fitting pipe cutting you ever seen and it doesnt matter.
Well the mass production settings that exist today favor either aluminum at the low end or carbon at the high end. Yeah another import market that has chosen the absolute least durable / repairable materials for the given setting 
the people who make it seem super complicated and elite are workshops like mercian and pashley who market this totally ordinary thing as if its equivalent of like a rolls royce when its not.
but since you decided that i did that, i will now. to build a lugged frame you're going to need a emery cloth, degreaser, blowtorch, flux, brass or silver rods, dremel with cutting and grinding wheels, wire wheels, facers, thread tappers, and at least a couple of jigs to hold everything together. you'll also need a workbench and good ventilation. but before any of this you'll need to know what kind of parts you'll use to make it a complete bike because that determines stuff like the location of cable stops and bosses or threaded screwholes
so fuck u
stegosaurus posted:What type of steel do you even use, how thick is the wall of the tubing
for something like Reynolds 531 tubes (what most good bikes used from the 1930s to the early 90) about 0.8mm to 1mm at the ends and about 0.5mm in the middle. they made the ends thicker like that because thats the part that gets hot when they're attached together, and heat weakens steel. R531 is a manganese–molybdenum steel alloy that's extruded into shape
a cheap bike would be made of generic, weaker steels that'd be 1mm thick or sometimes more all the way through. those tubes were made in a different manufacturing process, where it'd come in flat like an unending joint wrap and go through a series of rollers to make it round, then the seam was welded. they'd just chop off the right lengths as it came out of the machine
for ref the cheap mountain bike i cut in half with a grinder to throw away easier had walls about 8mm thick. that answered the question of how something sized for a 6 year old weighed 17kg
roseweird posted:sorry
its cool. if youre looking to experiment with brazing bikes together there's a sheldon brown page about frankenstien tandems where he shows how to do it. the bikes he recommends are getting a bit expensive now tho
its all pretty repairable if its bent or dented. people nowadays are used to aluminium which fatigues easily, so forums get clogged up with "you bent your fork? its a deathtrap throw it away" type posts. i seen a wizardbeard looking old man in the shop fix that with nothing but a vise and thick plank of wood
here's a guy rolling out dents
aluminium is a dumb material to make bike frames out of imo. it can't tolerate flexing about like steel can so they stiffen it up with bigger diameter tubes and suddenly you can run over a braille textbook and read it with your ass
Horselord posted:you can run over a braille textbook and read it with your ass
noice
today i spent a couple hours repeatedly repairing the same puncture. the patches would go on okay, but as soon as i started inflating, they'd bulge out super thin like a snot bubble then pop. i think it was a bad batch
then after i finally gave up and used a different repair kit, i found that i'd broken a spoke when the pothole burst the inner tube
fuck my life
